Fitting a standard re-circ valve + boost problems

[Steve169]

Anyone know if this is the standard valve i need to replace the Bailey dump valve thats on my 96 WRX RA now ?

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/1184/standardvalvesl7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

thanks

Steve

:D

[jodie]

iff your dump valve is on the intercooler ( im sure it is) then yes

[rooferman]

Thats a my 99/00 one .......my 96 is a straight through plastic design.

[Steve169]

Yeah, thats what i need, my dump valve is below the intercooler :(

I'm having the following problem, was gonna try going back to the orig valve to see if my dump valve was broken.

96 WRX RA

It only seems to boost upto 0.4-0.5 and then starts backing off, surely this should be 0.9ish ? and sometimes when you put your foot down it runs very jerky, boost on boost off etc.... I tried cleaning on the solenoid but that does not seem to have helped any.

The car is standard bar a dump valve and an induction kit.

This also seems to be a sort of hissing when you put your foot down, not at low revs but when you get higher. Are dump valves meant to make any sort of noise under acceleration ? I was thinking that maybe this was broken or a burst pipe ?

Bit of a scoob noob so im still learning my way round the car !

Anyone have any ideas ? Pics would help too if poss !

Car is under warranty still so I want to get it sorted asap. (and hopefully get them to change as many parts as I can !)

Steve

[Sizer]

Hissing when accelerating sounds like the dunmp valves not closing properly. Try removing it and cleaning it up, maybe a tiny squirt of WD... worked for me bro!

Si
--
www.type-r-ra.co.uk

[Steve169]

Turns out that I have the following fault codes:

13 Camshaft Position Sensor
24 Idle Control System Malfunction
24 ISC Valve (Stick)
24 Open/Short in ISC Valve Circuit
44 Turbocharging Pressure Control Signal

:cry:

[Steve169]

I also am trying to get hold of a standard re-circ valve to test the dump valve theory.

assuming this is the right one for a 96 wrx ra, looks like it from the info i can find.

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/4875/ca8c1zp4.th.jpg (http://img122.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ca8c1zp4.jpg)

what would i need to do to take off the Bailey dump valve that was on when i bought the car and fit this one on ?

I'm not very mechanically minded so any help would be great !

cheers

Steve.

[cheesey]

I've not long since down the very same thing, but in reverse on my 93/94 wrx type ra, i removed the re-circ valve and replaced it with a bailey unit in the theory/hope of reducing pressure on the turbo when i let off the throttle thus causing the turbo to stall and having to spool up again.
Yes it does work and the turbo is spinning all the time,but i have noticed fuel consumption is even worse than normal presumably because of the turbo going all the time, and the drive is jerky on part throttle at higher speeds due to the turbo gases not being vented properly,the accelerator now more of an on/off device in order to vent the excess pressure properly,one way around this is to fit the hks sqv dump valve,which lets the air out squenchely not all at once thus making a smoother drive,but at £200+ not to keen on that idea.
With regards to refitting the re-circ unit, all I did when fitting the bailey,was to remove the valve,remove the hose's to the air intake pipe and the intercooler to turbo pipe,blank off the hole on the air intake pipe and attach the dump valve via a short bit of hose to the elbow on the intercooler to turbo pipe,re-fitting the re-circ(which is what I shall be doing) is the reverse of the above.
hope thats helps :wink:

[Steve169]

yeah, its the small pipe that runs off the dump of the dump valve at the minute, im not sure what i do with that

[jodie]

right mate i hope this makes some sence :lol:

i will try to use this pic and diff colours to show you

1.PINK. take you bailey off but leave the red piping connected to the bit on the engine
2.BLUE. red piping will attach to the we bit on top off your std valve just as i dose on the bailey
3. GREEN.take the bung thing out
4. PURPLE.you std valve will go where the bung was and hear....

[img=http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/5259/fitdumpvalvexu9.th.jpg] (http://img90.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fitdumpvalvexu9.jpg)

after your done take your cut fingers and with baseball pitcher style throw your dump valve as hard as you can against a wall :lol: :lol: :wink:

and i would say go back to your standard air box + a good pannel filter all your inducton kit is doin is sucking in hot air from under the hood and will kill your maf..unless you got 1 off these £25o jobies that go in the wing :lol: :lol:

good luck
jodie

sry there a we arrow on the std valve this should point towards ya air box

[Steve169]

Cheers for taking the time out to do that :D

[Steve169]

Car is in the garage getting sorted out hopefully, they just told me they are fitting a new intercooler pipe gasket, i'm guessing thats what the noise was !

[Steve169]

Fixed ! :D

Seems to run less boost but smoother with the standard re-circ valve on, gonna try a week or so on each i think 8)

[Imran Mughal]

Hi Cheesey,

Are you saying that the HKS sequential dump valve is a better option than the factory dump valve or an after market recirc dump valve?

I'm asking because i have the HKS SQV dump valve on my car and am getting confused now whether to revert to a recirc dump valve or stick with the HKS!!!
I've been told that subarus are designed in such a way that they require some pressure to be pushed back into the system. Since the HKS releases pressure 'squenchely', does it mean that it performs this function?

I'm not experiencing any problems like jerking (at high or low speed) or boost leak. The car is just running slightly rich though (it back fires every now and then).

So, which is it then?

Cheers,

Imran

[usedtobeWhiteRAman_nowsilverMazdaMPS6man]

You have already been given the answer in a previous thread:)

VTA valves, be they HKS,Blitz, Bill Bailey of Fred Bloggs are gimmicks and for those that want to get the rally car noise which will never happen because that noise is the external wastegate not the dump valve:(.

If you want the best for your ROAD CAR engine stick with the OE valve or at least upgrade it to a piston type recirc valve.

I think this is what Jodie was saying with the "throw it against a wall" comment;)

[Imran Mughal]

I hear ya!

Cheers,

Imran

[Imran Mughal]

By the way,

Is it possible to get the the external wastegate sound on a road car engine???

Imran

[usedtobeWhiteRAman_nowsilverMazdaMPS6man]

Only by fitting an external waste gate................big job and big money

[jodie]

Ralph what about taking you DV off all together that will give you wasgate chatter will it not ? (or is that just the sound off the turbine stalling when you lift off)... iff you like braking turbos that is lol

[usedtobeWhiteRAman_nowsilverMazdaMPS6man]

Ralph what about taking you DV off all together that will give you wasgate chatter will it not ? (or is that just the sound off the turbine stalling when you lift off)... iff you like braking turbos that is lol

lol, easy job, resulting in................................................ ....................
BIG MONEY:):):):):):):):):)

BTW, how is your car coming along?

[jodie]

well it went right through the mot:D:D
still to put my coilovers on & and have put the bootlid with the version 4 sti wing back on (for the winter;)) and some 16s..
i will try and get some pics up 2morrow


ralph i did get an advisory oil weeping from the back diff. do ya know iff its a gasket or some sota sealant?.

[usedtobeWhiteRAman_nowsilverMazdaMPS6man]

Changing the gasket in situ is a doddle. Drop the oil out and maybe even let it stand with the cover off overnight.
Ensure the old gasket is totally removed and use a blunt table knife or similar if you have bits of gasket still to remove on both mating surfaces.
Clean both mating surfaces, apply the new gasket, no paste required, ensure it is in the right position and torque up carefully in the correct sequence.
Ensure you refill with the correct oil to the bung level. Probably .8 litres but whatever is needed to get to the bottom of the filler hole.
It will also help if you steam off or pressure wash the diff the day before the inspection. It makes locating the leak that much easier.
If you are not going to sort this in the next day or two make sure you do not run the diff oil level low.
Total job time including jacking the car up will be an hour, perhaps less. 15 mins the night before and 45 mins max next morning.

[jodie]

cheers mate . take it i can get the gasket from the dealers?

[spooner]

I Have a Forge Motorsport atmospheric dump valve fitted,wished i kept my standard re-circulating one.

[spooner]

but I still have my standard front cat down-pipe in the cellar,if anyones interested:rolleyes: