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manta350
17-02-2008, 08:21 PM
HI TO ALL.
I BROUGHT STI V2 TYPE RA AND AFTER 12 HOURS IT STARTED KNOCKING VERY SLIGHTLY ONCE HOT.AFTER A MONTH OF USE KNOCKING ALL THE TIME.:(
SO I DROPPED SUMP OFF AND TO MY HORROR SOME ONE HAD FITTED A NEW CORK SUMP GASKET WITH LOTS OF RED SEALER:confused: BUT WORSE STILL THE OLD BLACK SEALER HAD BEEN LEFT IN SUMP AND OIL PICK UP STRAINER IS OVERED IN STRINGY BITS OF SEALER.SUMP FULL OF COPPER DEPOSITS.
SO BIT THE BULLET TODAY REMOVED ENGINE AND STRIPPED COMPLETELY, IT ONLY TOOK 5 HOURS DON'T KNOW IF THATS QUICK OR NOT.
ON INSPECTION NUMBER 1 BIG END KNACKERED, CENTER THURSTS COPPER COLOURED AND THE OTHER BIG ENDS ARE LIGHTLY SCORED.CRANK VERY VERY LIGHTLY SCORED AND VERY LIGHT SCORED MAIN BEARINGS -NOT AS BAD AS I THOUGHT THEY'D BE.
SO NOW TIME TO CLEAN AND CHECK EVERYTHING.
BUT CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERE ENGINE NUMBERS ARE AND HOW TO TELL WHICH VERSION OF EJ20 I HAVE INCASE SOMEONE HAS SWAPPED ENGINE BEFORE. ALSO WHERE IS BEAT TO BUY ENGINE REBUILD PARTS AND GASKETS.
ALSO THE CON RODS HAVE CASING NUMBERS CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT THEY SHOULD BE OR WHAT THEY MEAN.
THANKS SHAUN
P.S WILL TRY TO UPLOAD PICS SOON

wrx
18-02-2008, 11:15 AM
HI TO ALL.
I BROUGHT STI V2 TYPE RA AND AFTER 12 HOURS IT STARTED KNOCKING VERY SLIGHTLY ONCE HOT.AFTER A MONTH OF USE KNOCKING ALL THE TIME.:(
SO I DROPPED SUMP OFF AND TO MY HORROR SOME ONE HAD FITTED A NEW CORK SUMP GASKET WITH LOTS OF RED SEALER:confused: BUT WORSE STILL THE OLD BLACK SEALER HAD BEEN LEFT IN SUMP AND OIL PICK UP STRAINER IS OVERED IN STRINGY BITS OF SEALER.SUMP FULL OF COPPER DEPOSITS.
SO BIT THE BULLET TODAY REMOVED ENGINE AND STRIPPED COMPLETELY, IT ONLY TOOK 5 HOURS DON'T KNOW IF THATS QUICK OR NOT.
ON INSPECTION NUMBER 1 BIG END KNACKERED, CENTER THURSTS COPPER COLOURED AND THE OTHER BIG ENDS ARE LIGHTLY SCORED.CRANK VERY VERY LIGHTLY SCORED AND VERY LIGHT SCORED MAIN BEARINGS -NOT AS BAD AS I THOUGHT THEY'D BE.
SO NOW TIME TO CLEAN AND CHECK EVERYTHING.
BUT CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERE ENGINE NUMBERS ARE AND HOW TO TELL WHICH VERSION OF EJ20 I HAVE INCASE SOMEONE HAS SWAPPED ENGINE BEFORE. ALSO WHERE IS BEAT TO BUY ENGINE REBUILD PARTS AND GASKETS.
ALSO THE CON RODS HAVE CASING NUMBERS CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT THEY SHOULD BE OR WHAT THEY MEAN.
THANKS SHAUN
P.S WILL TRY TO UPLOAD PICS SOON

http://www.apiengines.com/index3.php

These people are very good & helpfull too

manta350
07-04-2008, 10:25 PM
started rebuild, after hours of stripping,sanding,cleaning old dirt and silcone sealer.
102

manta350
07-04-2008, 10:28 PM
new steel h-section con rods with arp bolts upto 600bhp rated.
103

manta350
07-04-2008, 10:29 PM
ported and polished cylinder heads.
104

manta350
07-04-2008, 10:34 PM
new modified oil pump to keep the new acl bearings feed.
107

scooby ra
08-04-2008, 03:04 PM
Looking good mate, What pistons you running?

manta350
08-04-2008, 09:55 PM
standard pistons as i'm not planning on major mods or high bhp, needed 1 rod as it had gone oval so fitted best i could afford.heads will help efficiency,oil pump for safety,headers for weight and flow.
can any one tell me what the benifit of parallel fuel line mod?? how?? why?? 5th injector as well?

wrx_driver
08-04-2008, 10:57 PM
standard pistons as i'm not planning on major mods or high bhp, needed 1 rod as it had gone oval so fitted best i could afford.heads will help efficiency,oil pump for safety,headers for weight and flow.
can any one tell me what the benifit of parallel fuel line mod?? how?? why?? 5th injector as well?
Parallel fuel rail will ensure enough fuel gets to all cylinders, standard rail can leave piston 3 short on juice.

There is a good starter here http://www.northursalia.com/modifications/drivetrain/fuelrail/fuelrail.html

5th injector is for cold start only

manta350
13-04-2008, 10:09 PM
new headers.
110

manta350
13-04-2008, 10:10 PM
fits well
111

scoob
14-04-2008, 09:30 PM
This is looking :cool: mate.

Good stuff

:)

manta350
14-04-2008, 10:19 PM
Inlet Manifold Polished Over The Weekend Just Awaiting Fuel Hose And T Pipes To Do Fuel Rail Mod.
112

manta350
14-04-2008, 10:21 PM
Will Look Ok :)
113

andy
15-04-2008, 01:29 PM
the casings for all the ej20's will be the same, excepting the closed deck nature of the early RA and early Legacy engines, dont worry about that.
also, it has been proven quite successfully that the standard odb ej20 is good for 500 plus bhp and serious abuse.
the parallel rail mod is for a couple of reasons:
series rails means that no.3 gets the fuel last so can run hotter/leaner (hence why no.3 pot is most often the first to go, also why scoobys are reputed the have pistons by cadburys!), fitting braided paralle rail fuelling is seriously expensive, and I mean realy really expensive to do it right.
This allows you to get all 4 pots fed at the same time and also allows you to run some massive atmos fuel pressures.
I was up to over 4 bar static pressure on my 550s and a garrett30 hybrid.
fit the uprated pistons now, save an extra 2 months if you have to, no point in having an engine capable of anything only to fall short on the pots.
if/when you decide in the future to change the pistons you will have to go through a new gasket set etc etc

andy
15-04-2008, 01:33 PM
**** man, who did you fannymould polishing?

manta350
15-04-2008, 09:21 PM
manifold polished by a local wheel refurber, quick fit in job £40 as i didn't want to wait 2 weeks for him to do proper job.a couple of places he couldn't polish- underneath vac line pipes etc, but looks nice for the time he spent.it would of cost me £10 to paint so £40 shinny looks better but not loads of cash.

manta350
15-04-2008, 09:32 PM
hi not building for big power, needed a rod ,so fitted best i could afford.underdriven crank and alternator pulleys,headers and ported heads were at right price and help with efficiency of engine,slightly increase bhp.new timing belt kit and uprated oil pump for safety / life of engine.

it runs std ra turbo with remap and boost turned up slightly.

just want to get engine finished and back in but i can only work on it on sundays due to work.

just on look out now for cheap decat pipe,turbo timer,oil pressure gauge and sender,bits and bobs etc.

what would be a good low cost dump valve -pref chrippy rally car sound not the whistle very loud woosh ones?????

RICH235
15-04-2008, 09:37 PM
From what I've learnt myself and heard on here..... Stick to a recirc one. Preferably a forge one. The vent to atmosphere ones cause over fueling, idle problems etc....

Rich

WhiteRAman
16-04-2008, 07:48 AM
Rich is correct, do not use a VTA type valve.

The chirpy sound is not caused by the dumpvalve, this particular sound is an external wastegate.

manta350
24-04-2008, 09:29 PM
sti / ra tappets?? how do i know which type i have and what adjustments / checks should be done?
EJ20G DW4PJ

manta350
14-05-2008, 07:23 PM
hi can any one help engine is back together now just need to check if valve clearances are right.
i have a small round block that is not much bigger in diameter than the valve stem which has a recess in it so that it can sit on top of valve stem.then the follower bucket sits on top.
are these inner shims as i've seen redtop engines with large flat shims like a penny, but not ones like these.
do any one know valve clearance settings in thou or mm and whether hot or cold when setting.
cheers

RICH235
14-05-2008, 09:20 PM
I think that all engines 94 - 98 were hydralic.
Engines 98 - 00 are - INLET : 0.2mm +/-0.02. EXHAUST : 0.25mm +/-0.02. Compression pressure 10 - 12 bar.

But engines 00 - 04 are - INLET : 0.2mm +/-0.02 cold. EXHAUST : 0.2mm +/-0.02 cold. Compression pressure 10.2 - 12.7 bar.
This is what my autodata guide gives for the EJ20 engine, but is not that specific to each type.
HTH
Rich

manta350
16-05-2008, 10:09 PM
yeah my autodata doesn't list any data as i think the autodata is a uk spec impreza.
please dose any one know if i'm right in thinking that i have adjustable shim type as listed on ken and caths website as inner shim engine for type ra
this is only thing now stopping me runing in engine

manta350
26-05-2008, 09:53 PM
hi engine done and back in now just got 500 slow miles to run in.
i finally found out about the valve clearance shims.
flat penny waher shims on redtop / sti engine.
parallel sided 10mm dia - 5mm tall with recess in bottom to sit on top of valve stem on sti ra v1 - v2.
settings are 7-9 thou inlet (set mine to 8thou) and 9-11 thou exhaust (set mine to 12 thou as per rally car spec as they are better slack on exhaust).
hope this helps anyone else who checks and adjusts tappets as part of servicing or rebuild.

manta350
26-06-2008, 07:44 PM
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